Where I’m from in the Philippines, the canned meat Spam felt like a luxury, because it’s imported, more expensive and (arguably) tastier than the local brands of luncheon meat.
Spamsilog, which is a traditional Filipino breakfast meal consisting of Spam, fried egg and garlic rice, is my comfort food.
When I moved to New Zealand, it was such a huge surprise to me this wasn’t a shared sentiment in Western culture.
I was met with disgusted reactions – with some going as far as saying straight to my face that “Spam is dog food” after I’ve just told them how much I loved it.
But it’s not just Spam that seems to get looked down on, it’s other canned food too, like corned beef, fish, and other tinned vegetables.
So what’s the beef with canned food?
When I asked an academic why canned food gets so much shade, he said there could be a variety of reasons, but there was one common theme – colonialism.
Auckland University of Technology senior lecturer Rob Richardson says there’s this idea that these “are products the West doesn’t want, so we’ll dump it on other cultures”.
He says Spam made its way to countries like the Philippines, Japan and South Korea, because American soldiers left it there after World War II.
In Aotearoa, Rob says second and third-grade cuts of lamb, like lamb flaps, ended up being sold to the Pacific Islands because New Zealanders “didn’t want them”.
“[The disgusted reactions] probably have to do with a certain level of cultural arrogance, and we certainly need to eat more broadly if we’re going to be more sustainable,” he says.
“We can’t just eat the prime cuts of a meat, because what do we do with the rest of the animal?”
For cultures who enjoy or rely on canned food, Rob says they may have a love-hate relationship with it.
He says canned food is seen as reliable because it’s accessible, cheap, and has a long shelf-life, which is important for nations frequently hit by natural calamities.
He says others also see it as a badge of honour because it’s a symbol of recognition and forming a new culture of their own.
But he says the tinned products could also get some push back, as some would see it as the food of the coloniser and know it’s not healthy for their people.
“A lot of these countries have had a disrupted journey to statehood, as different [groups of people] have colonised them.
“They’ve always had an oppressor, and now they have independence and [the food they eat] is part of informing their national identity.”
An Auckland chef offering a slice of Filipino culture
Inspired by two Filipino canned food classics, a Filipino chef in Tāmaki Makaurau is bringing a taste of home to his dishes and introducing it in a contemporary way for New Zealand audiences to enjoy.
Bar Magda co-owner and head chef Carlo Buenaventura says it’s a way for people to move forward and step away from processed meat.
He says it’s keeping that sense of nostalgia for the Filipinos while also sharing that slice of the culture to the New Zealand palate.
Left: Terrine of spiced ham ‘SPAM’, cornichon, crab fat mayonnaise Right: Chicken & duck liver parfait, preserved smoked cherries, brioche. (Photo: Supplied)
“We’re about creating new food memories, and so we re-created the flavours of Spam in a form of French terrine. It’s something most locals are familiar with and it’s easy for them to adapt to.”
He says they didn’t want to use the canned Spam, so they worked with local butchers to coarse grind the meat needed.
Apart from that, their menu also offers a chicken and duck liver parfait, which is based off the canned liverwurst spread.
“The flavours are slightly different from the standard liver parfait. It’s a lot more savoury and umami flavours coming through.”
Carlo says the terrine of Spam has been one of their long-standing dishes, as they’ve mostly received positive feedback from a range of customers, including those who’ve never tried Spam before.
He says there’s also that sense of Filipino and Asian representation, as those who love Spam get a sense of excitement when they see it on the menu.
“It pushes us forward a little bit more and that’s very important for the growth of the diverse culture around New Zealand.”
Delicious but not the most nutritious
Registered nutritionist Claire Turnbull says canned food can have a place in our diet, but its nutritional value varies greatly.
She says canned fish in spring water, some vegetables like tomatoes, pulses and fruit in juice are fantastic and cheaper alternatives in a cost-of-living crisis.
“Chickpeas, kidney beans, lentils, black beans and such are a great way to bulk out meals, add fibre and get some protein too.”
Claire says eating too much processed meat may lead to certain types of cancer, so it’s recommended to limit consumption.
She says canned meat has higher fat and salt content, and is highly processed. But it’s processed meats in general, like bacon, salami, and ham, that European cultures eat a lot of as well.
She says it doesn’t mean you can never eat it, but it’s about balance, variation and being realistic.
“I am aware that culturally, some people are never going to give up canned meats, so to reduce portion sizes and frequency, [they could] add canned pulses or frozen veggies.”
Correction 14 August: This story incorrectly said there was a link between processed meat and diabetes. Registered nutritionist Claire Turnbull has clarified that there is no link between processed meat and getting diabetes, but only to limit consumption if you have diabetes.
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